Maroon and White Flowering Climber: Pacific Northwest's Frost-Resistant Vertical Showstopper

Your Pacific Northwest garden just got a vertical upgrade with these maroon and white flowering climbers—frost-resistant stars that turn fences into living art. ✨ I learned the hard way that delicate climbers can’t handle our damp winters, but these tough beauties thrive where others fail, blooming from early summer through frost.

These dramatic two-tone flowers play beautifully with evergreens, silver foliage, or even dark conifers for striking contrast. Think deep burgundy blooms against white centers cascading over trellises, arbors, or even old wooden ladders—each one becomes a focal point without overwhelming the space.

The key is spacing them 12-18 inches apart so branches intertwine naturally, creating that lush, romantic look.

You’ll love how they transform blank walls into seasonal masterpieces, with blooms that last longer than most annuals. Pair them with shrub roses or heuchera for a layered effect, or let them climb alongside clematis for a wild, cottage-garden vibe.

The contrast of maroon and white creates instant drama, even in small spaces.

Best of all, these climbers handle our rainy springs and chilly summers like pros—no fuss, just stunning vertical interest that keeps giving all season. Whether you’re dressing up a patio or hiding an eyesore, this is the secret weapon for PNW gardens that refuse to quit.

What you need

How to grow a frost-resistant maroon-and-white flowering climber

Here’s how to cultivate a dramatic vertical display that thrives in Pacific Northwest’s cool, damp climate.

Choose a frost-resistant climber like Clematis 'Jackmanii' (deep maroon blooms) or Clematis 'Nelly Moser' (white with maroon centers) for their cold hardiness and vigorous growth. These varieties handle USDA Zones 4-9, making them ideal for the PNW’s unpredictable winters. I always opt for container-grown plants from reputable nurseries—they establish faster and have fewer hidden pests.

Check the plant tag for sunlight requirements—most maroon-and-white clematis need full sun to partial shade (at least 6 hours of sunlight daily). In dense shade, blooms will be sparse and leggy. If your site gets afternoon shade, pair it with a light-colored trellis to reflect heat and maximize bloom time.

Clematis roots thrive in well-draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0–7.0). Amend heavy or clay soil with 3–4 inches of compost and a handful of perlite to prevent waterlogging—root rot is the #1 killer of these climbers. I dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but only as deep to avoid burying the crown too deeply.

Install a strong trellis, arbor, or fence before planting—clematis vines can reach 10–15 feet and need sturdy support. Use galvanized wire or wooden slats spaced 4–6 inches apart to allow vines to twine naturally. Water the hole thoroughly before planting to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.

Place the plant so the crown sits 2–3 inches below soil level—this protects it from frost heave in winter. Spread roots gently and backfill with native soil mixed with 1 cup of bone meal (for phosphorus) and 1 cup of compost. Press firmly to remove air gaps, then water deeply until moisture seeps 6 inches down. Mulch with 2–3 inches of shredded bark to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

For the first 2–3 weeks, keep soil consistently moist but not soggy—young roots are delicate. I water every 2–3 days until new growth appears, then taper to once weekly once established. Avoid overhead watering; use a soaker hose to deliver moisture directly to the root zone and prevent fungal diseases like powdery mildew.

Most maroon-and-white clematis are Group 3 pruners, meaning they bloom on both old and new wood. In early spring, cut back last year’s growth by one-third to encourage fresh, vigorous shoots. Remove any dead, crossing, or weak stems at the base. I also snip off spent blooms (deadheading) to redirect energy into new flowers.

Train vines by tying them loosely to the trellis with soft plant ties (never wire or twine). Clematis twine clockwise, so guide them in that direction to avoid tangling. By mid-summer, you’ll see lush, maroon-and-white blossoms cascading down—this is when they need consistent watering to support heavy blooms. Fertilize lightly with a balanced 10-10-10 formula every 4–6 weeks during the growing season.

In late fall, cut back Group 3 clematis to 12–18 inches tall and mound 4–6 inches of mulch around the base. This protects the crown from freezing and thawing cycles. I also wrap young plants in burlap for extra insulation if your winters dip below 10°F. Most varieties are hardy to -20°F, but a little extra care ensures they bounce back stronger.

In early spring, remove winter protection and prune as directed. Watch for new shoots emerging by late March or April—this is your cue to resume regular watering and fertilizing. By June, you’ll have a stunning vertical display that attracts hummingbirds and butterflies while adding drama to your PNW garden.

Tips & tricks for thriving maroon-and-white climbers

Here's what nobody tells you about keeping these dramatic vines looking their best through PNW winters.

Variety Matters: While 'Jackmanii' and 'Nelly Moser' are excellent choices, consider Clematis 'Multiblue' for its striking maroon-blue blooms that thrive in cooler climates. I've found that container-grown plants from local PNW nurseries adapt better to our damp winters than mail-order varieties. Always check the plant tag for USDA Zone 6-8 hardiness if you're in the cooler parts of the region—some 'Nelly Moser' clones handle -15°F better than others.

Soil Science: The 3-4 inches of compost and perlite mix is non-negotiable for preventing root rot, but here's the secret: mix in 1 cup of coarse sand if your soil is particularly dense. I've seen clematis in heavy clay soil struggle even with perlite—the extra sand creates larger air pockets. Test your soil pH before planting; if it's above 7.0, work in elemental sulfur to lower it gradually over a few months.

Winter Protection Strategy: That 4-6 inches of mulch is your first line of defense, but don't stop there. For plants in Zone 5 or colder, create a mini cold frame using a large plastic storage bin cut in half and placed over the base. This traps radiant heat while allowing airflow—my Zone 5 'Jackmanii' has survived -25°F winters with this method. Remove it in early spring once new shoots appear.

Bloom Extension: To maximize your mid-summer display, fertilize with fish emulsion (not synthetic) every 4-6 weeks during the growing season. The nitrogen boost encourages lush foliage, but here's the trick: stop fertilizing by mid-August. This prevents tender new growth that could be damaged by early frosts. I've seen clematis bloom 3 weeks longer when fertilized this way.

Frequently asked questions

Can maroon and white flowering climbers survive harsh Pacific Northwest winters?

Many varieties, like Clematis armandii or Wisteria floribunda, are bred for cold hardiness (often zones 5-8). Mulch heavily in late fall, prune in early spring, and choose well-draining soil to protect roots. Pro tip: Avoid heavy snow buildup on vines—gently brush it off to prevent damage.

How fast do these climbers grow, and when will they flower?

Growth rates vary: wisteria can surge 10+ feet per year, while clematis grows slower (3-6 feet annually). Most climbers establish roots in the first year and flower in year 2 or 3, with peak blooms in spring or early summer. Patience pays off—healthy vines reward you with dramatic displays!